TracTuff J Series Fill Pot
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So you own an EG, EK, or DC2 and you've swapped in a J Series... almost everything is right where you want it! Everything except for that MONSTROSITY of a water neck starring back at you. Our J Series billet water neck flanges do what no others do, hold the water cross-over tube, and is the best looking product to boot!!
The J Series billet water neck flanges were designed to be the premiere water neck solution on the market. The flanges can be used as is or used to fabricate pretty much anything you can dream up. The product represented here is just one concept. In time... I'm sure there will be more.
The combo shown is the most compact version I will likely make. It incorporates similar features as our popular swirl tanks but it's not a swirl tank, the inlets to the tank enter in two different directions, which don't exactly create the same swirl effect (or maybe it does?) but it does allow for both the front and rear coolant passages to be connected as well as offers a fill point that is sure to be the highest point in your cooling system. Swirl tanks can be made but require additional space and design flexibility.
Options are abundant but if you dont see something specific... email me. That's how this became a reality. I can add an ECT bung pretty much anywhere you want, a traditional hose barb for heater core connection, or accessory ports for aftermarket gauges!
Flanges, tank end caps and radiator cap bung are all machined from US milled 6061 aluminum. The rear flange incorporates an o-ring grove while the front retains the OEM gasket. The water cross-over tube mount is machined to accept the OEM o-ring on the back-side and converts to a -16 ORB port on the front-side. The domestic cap bung has a 1/8" NPT port and the import version has a 1/16" NPT for connection to an overflow. The domestic version uses any early model (late 70's Chevy C10 Pickup w/ 454) cap and the import version uses early model Honda (88'-91' Civic/ CRX and 90'-93' Integra) cap.
NOTE: Made to Order - Contact for ETA - If you are interested in a specific design that varies from this, please email us at sales@tractuff.com. If using AN lines we also recommend designing the upper radiator hose so that there is droop/ give so the engines movement and does not push/ pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts. Flanges have undergone a design change that allows them to be used with the popular J2K adapter kit as well as a few GM transmissions that previously did not work. The water cross-over tube mount is unfortunately to low to work with scatter shields.
Accessory Notes:
ECT Sensor Bung - Can be located in the tube coming from the rear cylinder head to the tank or in the actual tank. I suggest the tank so you get a blended temp for both cylinder heads, however... this will require the harness to be lengthened.
Heater Core Connection - Can be located in the tube coming from the rear cylinder head to the tank (in the bend but facing the firewall) or on the actual tank. Locating the connection in the tank will require you to use bulk hose and route the line.
Water Bypass Connection - Only used on systems that are going to incorporate a thermostat. Purchase of our inline thermostat will be required.
Additional Options:
-ECT Sensor Bung
-Early J Series ECT
-Heater Core
-Hose Bung
-Water Bypass (Thermostat Use Only)
-10 Male Flare
-Accessory Bung
1/8" NPT
-4 Male Flare
-6 Male Flare
-Any Combo of Two
-All Three
-Radiator Cap
-Standard Stant - 16 psi - Domestic
-Safety Release Stand - 16 psi - Domestic
-Race Moroso - 16 psi - Domestic
-Standard Stant - 13 psi - Import
-Genuine Honda - 13 psi - Import
-Rear Cylinder Tube Mod
-Std. Hose Break w/1.25" Coupler
-20 Wiggins Break w/Clamshell
